Review: The Broad Chare, Newcastle

 I VIVIDELY REMEMBER visiting Newcastle the weekend before the first COVID-19 lockdown back
in March 2020. In a city famed for its nightlife, pubs were eerily empty with it often just us and a few bored bar staff in situ as we wandered from boozer to boozer in search of life. It was as if we were in a zombie movie or a war-time scenario; I won’t ever forget the feeling of a barren city that felt like the life had been sucked out of it. This time we can experience the warmth of the Geordie people properly and The Broad Chare was first on the agenda.

While the pandemic is now confined to history, bars and restaurants now face a different crisis, with the UK Government continuing to ignore calls from the industry for help. Reports say at least two bars are closing each day and worried restaurateurs tell us they will be lucky to even break even. With rising wage costs, NI contributions and soaring energy prices, a VAT cut in line with our European friends seems like the logical thing to do, but this Government doesn’t appear to use much of that. 

The Broad Chare is run by the 21 Hospitality Group – an independent company who operate a handful of eateries in Newcastle – and holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand for their “proper pub food”. Seems like my sort of place.

We arrive on a Saturday evening to find a bustling bar area on the ground floor and a pretty full restaurant space upstairs where we are informed that “we only have one of the chicken pie specials left so let me know as soon as, if you’d like it”. Sold. The menu is a small-and-large plates affair featuring some usual characters such as oysters, rillettes, steaks, a burger option and fish ‘n’ chips, as well as a few seasonal dishes with their own personality. There’s also a damn fine bar snacks menu to service the punters downstairs with pub staples like pork pies, crackling and ¼ pints of prawns to name but a few.  Worth mentioning the ‘worker’s lunch’ during the week and Sunday roast offering that’ll be worth noting if things go well.

Assuming the pie will be a hearty affair, we split a portion of monkfish cheeks with tartare sauce 
(£8.50) to start, which arrive pleasingly breaded and deep fried to perfection. Although they do lack appropriate seasoning, they are slightly rescued by the sharp tartare on the side. Our choice of French white Cuvee 21 wine (£35 for the bottle), which is a blend of grapes from renowned winemaker George Dubouef, segues neatly with the fish.

The pie arrives in a slightly medieval banquet-style fashion as surrounding guests turn their attention to it arriving at our table. Priced at £36, the pastry looked pretty dark (not burnt), which I like, and an immediate waft of chicken, veg and white wine blesses our nostrils as a generous portion of silky mash and healthy greens joins the party. Now, there is nothing more irritating than cutting into such a spectacle only to find it half filled, but this was stuffed – we are in the north of England after all.

The meat is soft with additional greenery inside and the sauce is thankfully quite light and delicate. The 
accompanying sides are cooked with care and definitely enhance the main event. Service is pleasingly slick and attentive – you can tell they run a tight ship here and staff seem like they are enjoying themselves.

This is proper pub food done well, which is a truly joyous thing, especially with genuine northern hospitality evident. I will definitely visit the group’s other venues and go for Sunday lunch next time we’re in the Toon.

Web: thebroadchare.co.uk 

Instagram: @_thebroadchare

Phone: (0191) 211 2144

Address: 25 Broad Chare, Newcastle Upon Tyne, NE1 3DQ

Open: Lunch: Mon-Sat, 12 - 2.30 p.m., Sunday 12-5 p.m. Dinner: Mon - Sat, 5.30 p.m. - 9 p.m. (closed Sunday dinner)