Review: Partick Duck Club, Glasgow

GLASGOW IS A city I primarily associate with music. I’m pretty sure most professional acts would
agree when I say there is no better place for a gig than this fair city. Food-wise, I’ve always found it a bit hit or miss, although it’s definitely improving, as recognised by the Michelin guide with two restaurants (Cail Bruich and Unalome) winning stars in recent years.  The gig tonight was the brilliant Irish alternative folk artists Junior Brother at the Cottiers Theatre which is conveniently located near to the Partick Duck Club – a restaurant that’s long been on my hit list.

Opened in 2017 by friends Ross and Greig, the Duck Club is an all-day eatery serving breakfast, lunch and dinners in the Hyndland area of the city, just a short journey from the city centre and five minutes from the Hydro, making it an ideal spot for pre-gig dining. The name comes from an old tavern known as the “bun and yill house”, yill, as I’ve just learned, is an auld Scots word for ale where Glasgow merchants would congregate on a Saturday to feast on roast duck, sage and onion (stuffing I assume), and green peas accompanied by a pint of local ale. The “Duck Club of Partick” was formed.

First impressions were positive as the dining space was relaxed and modern without being too plasticky and garish. There’s an open kitchen at the rear, a few booths by the windows where we were placed, as well as a few tables in the centre of what was a comfortable and atmospheric dining room, despite being a cold mid-week February evening.

Time constraints meant we’d have to skip starters and head directly into mains, mine being the Texan chicken schnitzel with southern dredge, cowboy butter beans and pickle salad at the cost of £19.95. First impressions were mixed to say the least.  The giant slab of chicken looked great but I’d pictured that being sat atop a mound of beans dressed in plenty of sauce. 

However, what arrived looked more like a garnish of beans rather than an actual proper serving, and
there was nothing ‘cowboy’ about them. I hurriedly ordered a portion of duck fat fries on the side to compensate. The meat itself was cooked brilliantly, but the flavour of the coating, much like the beans, was muted, lacking those warming southern spices I’d expected. The salad was tasty with the right level of pickling but again, not in proportion to the protein. It’s not like the beans or salad are expensive ingredients; I’d probably have been happier with a smaller portion of chicken and more of them to make the dish more cohesive. The fries did arrive swiftly but that was probably to their detriment, as they were a little greasy and not overly crisp.

Sarah opted for venison and confit garlic meatballs with crispy beef fat potatoes and peppercorn sauce
(£19.95) and we had ordered a side of onion rings too for an additional £5.95. The meatballs were decent and were brimming with sweet slow-roasted garlic flavours. The spuds came in a sort of terrine form that was neatly presented and skilfully made. The peppercorn sauce was fine, although I wouldn’t have minded some actual cracked pepper in it. The dish maybe just lacked a bit of greenery; kale or a couple of trees of Tenderstem broccoli or something.

I really wanted to like this place but it was a bit underwhelming.  The actual execution of the food was good, as was the concept of the dishes, but they felt like nobody had actually sat down and eaten them. Pity. What was I saying about hit or miss?

Web: partickduckclub.co.uk

Phone: (0141) 334 9909

Instagram: @partickduckclub

Address: 27 Hyndland Street, Mansfield Park, Partick, G11 5QF

Open: six days 9 a.m. - 9 p.m. (closed Tuesdays)