Review: Sugo, Glasgow

EDINBURGH AND GLASGOW are very different and not just from a culinary perspective. I believe the capital does fine dining better, while the western city takes the crown when it comes to casual eating.  Who is the overall winner? I’ll let you decide. For now, let’s talk about Sugo. 

From the people behind the hugely popular Paesano Pizza, Sugo builds on the same well-priced, high-turnover model perfected in their pizzeria. The menu consists of 10 main course options, a small specials offering as well as a range of the usual Italian sides, all with a keen focus on regional cooking; a far cry from those (not so) Italian restaurants that feel the need to bastardise traditional Italian cuisine with their needlessly long menus and total omission of seasonal ingredients.

Located on Mitchell Street, a short walk from Queen Street station, the interior is vast with floods of natural light. There's a diverse range of diners from office workers to tourists to families, all lending to the vibrant atmosphere. An open kitchen grabs your attention with an army of chefs beavering away making fresh pasta, while the well-drilled front of house staff manages what seems like an endless flow of expectant diners. There are no reservations here so expect a short wait for a table.

Despite the last remnants of summer, I thought I’d prepare for cooler days and opt for option five: pappardelle with slow-cooked beef ragu (£13.95) from Lazio. To get this right there needs to be melt-in-the-mouth meat that’s been adequately slow cooked with a rich tomato sauce that’s given equal respect, and of course, the pasta needs to be flawless. Thankfully, the ragu was oh so unctuous and 

invited you to dive straight back in after every mouthful. In keeping with previous visits, the pasta was again flawlessly executed so I’m a happy bunny. Is there anything worse than overcooked pasta?

Sarah ordered tagliatelle with mushrooms in brown butter with fresh sage and parmesan. Again, care and simplicity are the name of the game with solid cooking, accurate proportions, and quality ingredients – this is the sort of food I get the most satisfaction from. Find me a dish that’s better value for £11.95 and I’ll be suitably impressed.

You can instantly understand the popularity of this place. Its success is built on consistency, a buzzing dining room, and ultimately, delivering well-cooked food at an affordable price that leaves you wondering where you’d find better value. Sugo will undoubtedly become a Glasgow institution if it isn't already.

Web:Sugopasta.co.uk

Instagram: @Sugopastaglasgow

Call: (0141) 258 1650

Open seven days, 11:30 a.m. - 10:30 p.m. Sun - Thurs, 11:30 a.m. - 11 p.m. Fri & Sat.

W isn’t already; be sure to add it to your list.