THE OLDER I get, the more I believe that the Italian
attitude to food matches my own: nothing theatrical, just good produce cooked
simply and skilfully. Tonight would be the last meal of my 30s and, while he is
not Italian, I found myself at Theo
Randall at The Intercontinental where this British chef turns out some of
the best Italian cuisine in London. Here's hoping I'd go out on a high.
Theo’s passion for Italian cuisine stems from
travelling up and down the country sampling the rich variety of different regional cuisines, and sourcing the finest produce to curate his season-led menus. He was formerly head chef at the
much-celebrated River Café where he
earned a Michelin star before opening his eponymous eatery here on Hyde Park
Corner back in 2006.
Our server plonked down a bread plate consisting of perfectly light focaccia and a slice with incredibly sweet tomatoes that we chomped on whilst trying to peek into the (sort of) open kitchen to see if the man himself was rattling the pans tonight.
Starters were soon with us in the form of cured beef carpaccio with wild rocket, shaved zucchini, Parmesan and aged balsamic (pine nuts were omitted due to my allergy). This is a simple dish you’ve probably encountered numerous times in terrible Britified “Italians” across the land, with the exception that this was the real McCoy, largely because of the optimum quality produce that is critical in order to extract its maximum potential. The beef just gave way in your mouth with the crunch of fresh rocket, fruity cheese ramping up the umami and sweet acidity from the vinegar neatly tying it together.that the pastry team maintained the standard. It was brimming with citrus freshness and the lactic tang from crème fraiche ice cream balanced that tartness perfectly. I also loved the slightly burnt pastry and caramelised surface of the pie that added a touch of bitterness to the mix. A flawless pudding if there ever was one.
The staff were very attentive and chirpy when we got in, but
once our original waiter appeared to clock off, we became a bit of an
afterthought as the meal wore on. That
was a shame as what came out of the kitchen was exceptional.
Web: Theorandall.com
Phone: (0207) 409 3131
Address: One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7QY
Open: Tues - Fri 12-2, 5.30-10, Sat 12.30 - 4, 5.30-10
Cool
ReplyDelete"Elevate your dining experience to royal status at King22, where every dish is a testament to culinary excellence. As the coveted destination for Best Restaurant in canada, our menu is a feast fit for royalty. Indulge in the sumptuousness of crispy fries, delectable burgers, and the exotic allure of Chinese cuisine, all crafted to perfection. Dive into a world of flavors with our diverse selection of vegetarian and non-vegetarian appetizers, tantalizing burgers, and Desi specialties that promise an unforgettable gastronomic journey. With options available in uncooked, marinated, or fully cooked varieties, every visit to King22 is a royal affair.
ReplyDelete