Review: Theo Randall at The Intercontinental, London

THE OLDER I get, the more I believe that the Italian attitude to food matches my own: nothing theatrical, just good produce cooked simply and skilfully. Tonight would be the last meal of my 30s and, while he is not Italian, I found myself at Theo Randall at The Intercontinental where this British chef turns out some of the best Italian cuisine in London. Here's hoping I'd go out on a high.

Theo’s passion for Italian cuisine stems from travelling up and down the country sampling the rich variety of different regional cuisines, and sourcing the finest produce to curate his season-led menus.  He was formerly head chef at the much-celebrated River Café where he earned a Michelin star before opening his eponymous eatery here on Hyde Park Corner back in 2006.

I had discovered they offer a Signature menu that’s served Tues – Thurs that fitted neatly with my birthday stay in the capital – I’m in.  Four courses and a half bottle of wine per person for £60 in the heart of London? I couldn’t quite believe it.

Our server plonked down a bread plate consisting of perfectly light focaccia and a slice with incredibly sweet tomatoes that we chomped on whilst trying to peek into the (sort of) open kitchen to see if the man himself was rattling the pans tonight.

Starters were soon with us in the form of cured beef carpaccio with wild rocket, shaved zucchini, Parmesan and aged balsamic (pine nuts were omitted due to my allergy). This is a simple dish you’ve probably encountered numerous times in terrible Britified “Italians” across the land, with the exception that this was the real McCoy, largely because of the optimum quality produce that is critical in order to extract its maximum potential. The beef just gave way in your mouth with the crunch of fresh rocket, fruity cheese ramping up the umami and sweet acidity from the vinegar neatly tying it together.

The Primo course was Cappelletti di vitello which was handmade pasta stuffed with slow-cooked duck with porcini mushrooms and Parmesan. I’m almost lost for superlatives when it comes to this dish – it was that good.  The pasta was quite thick, which I liked, and packed with the most unctuous of meaty fillings. The tasty parcels were drowned in a superb deep sauce with the shaved cheese bringing a tang and seasoning, hands down the best pasta dish I’ve tasted.

The main course of guinea fowl stuffed with prosciutto di Parma, lemon zest, thyme and mascarpone on pagnotta bruschetta, with Swiss chard and portobello mushrooms, had the unenviable task of following that brilliant duck dish.  The crown of the bird was cooked to perfection and looked like it might be a struggle to eat given the size of it.  The genius here lay with the crispy bread that had soaked up all the cooking juices to give this spectacular slab of crunchy deliciousness.  Underneath that lay a base of sauteed earthy mushrooms and carefully handled chard.  The sauce was wonderfully deep and coated the bird beautifully. Autumn is my favourite culinary season for this exact reason.

We would end with an Amalfi lemon tart; it was no surprise given how good the rest of the food was
that the pastry team maintained the standard.  It was brimming with citrus freshness and the lactic tang from crème fraiche ice cream balanced that tartness perfectly. I also loved the slightly burnt pastry and caramelised surface of the pie that added a touch of bitterness to the mix.  A flawless pudding if there ever was one.

The staff were very attentive and chirpy when we got in, but once our original waiter appeared to clock off, we became a bit of an afterthought as the meal wore on.  That was a shame as what came out of the kitchen was exceptional.

I couldn’t have wished for a better meal to end another decade of my life. The dedication to seasonality, the simplicity, the skill level of the cooking, and the flavours all just fused together to give a near-perfect meal that only ever happens once in a blue moon. £60 for four courses with wine? I’d be eating here every week. 

Web: Theorandall.com

Phone: (0207) 409 3131

Address: One Hamilton Place, Park Lane, W1J 7QY       

Open: Tues - Fri 12-2, 5.30-10, Sat 12.30 - 4, 5.30-10