Review: Harbour Bistro, Edinburgh

I HAD BEEN out walking, which for me usually involves reading a few restaurant menus.  I had thought a cheap set lunch had been a thing confined to a pre-Covid past, but Harbour Bistro in Newhaven seems to be bucking that trend.  I was as excited as I was suspicious to see how an establishment can afford to offer such a deal in the current climate.

Conveniently, the restaurant is a three-minute walk from my flat.  The site has changed owners several times in the seven years I’ve lived here. However, the reviews I had read for this incarnation were favourable. Further investigation revealed it was now being run by acclaimed chef Michael Neave whose former restaurant off the Royal Mile and Eyre Place eatery (also recently closed) I was familiar with. At £12.50 for two courses or £17.50 for three, it was a no-brainer. 

Inside the Harbour Inn is a cosy dining space with a half-dozen tables.  There’s a smart wine rack
adorning the rear wall and a few tasteful nods to its seaside location scattered around.  There’s also a large window leading into the kitchen that lends a sense of theatre to the occasion. Our server was chirpy and had a special menu made up for me outlining what dishes were suitable for my nut allergy. She proudly popped a plate of tasty homemade bread down consisting of tomato with rose harissa and wholemeal options, as well as a pot of the house shallot butter.

The 3-3-3 menu format tells me the food is fairly classic but influenced by someone who has travelled and is confident in their own style of food. I opened with two pucks of chicken, ham hock and leek terrine with piccalilli which I initially thought was a bit on the small side, but it turned out to be the perfect size for a multi-course lunch.  The terrine was tempered perfectly to room temperature and was brimming with garlic flavour.  A hint of earthy leeks was apparent, and the flecks of ham hock provided pleasing saltiness. The accompanying condiment came neatly diced, lightly pickled vegetables that worked harmoniously with the savoury part of the dish. 

Sarah ordered the unusual sweet potato and goats’ cheese roulade with pecan and pomegranate. The
cheese flavour was evident but not offensive and the creaminess was offset with both the sweetness of the potato, as well as the crunchy candied pecans. There were a couple of delicious crisp breads for dunking with the pomegranate element being a real highlight, although Sarah wished there was more of it.  This dish contained several elements but was well balanced. 

Pork belly is one of my faves, so I always order it when it’s on the menu. This hog was confited with
carrot puree, potato gateaux and Szechuan pepper emulsion.  The pork was delicious, displaying crispy crackling with a rich, tender underbelly.  Szechuan pepper can be dominant but here it was delicate and raised the meat to another level.  The potato terrine was an accomplished piece of cookery with the carrot puree brimming with flavour that went so well with the pig. You can always tell a good chef by the consistency and sheen of their sauces and the jus was highly commendable. 

My lady went for the cod with coconut and lime crust, herb gnocchi and Thai spiced sauce.  The fish was cooked superbly, offering big, tender flakes of cod with the crust bringing an interesting coconut flavour and subtle citrus notes.  The potato part was crispy with oodles of herby goodness dancing across your palette.  The sauce wasn’t spicy as billed; more aromatic and utterly delicious, as was a tender piece of pak choi. This was fusion done well. 

Our server highly recommended the “brilliant” brownie, so we agreed to share one; happily, she was spot on. It was so light yet decadent with a suitable gooeyness to it.  The Kahlua syrup made it feel a little more “adult” and the fresh strawberries just brought that little bit of welcome freshness.

The wine list was thoughtfully curated and favourably priced. I was pleased to see an old favourite of mine from my Oddbins days in there in the form of the organic Italian white Falerio Saladini Pilastri, although we opted for a decent bottle of Rousanne (£25) on this occasion.  

Hurrah! The cheap set lunch lives and it isn't utterly ghastly - quite the opposite, in fact. The food is competently cooked and has a bit of personality. Service is first-rate and the dining room is a pleasant place to dine in.  With the trams now running to Newhaven, it’s worth the short trip for some delicious grub and the seaside views. Harbour Bistro is my new go-to lunch spot.

Web: newhavenharbourbistro.co.uk

Phone: (0131) 374 2752

Address: 3 Pier Place, Edinburgh, EH6 4LP

Open: Thurs - Sun 12 - 2.30, 5.30 - 9