Review: Antonietta, Edinburgh

 AH, THE EDINBURGH trams. The scourge of every business on Leith Walk and beyond, so much so that new restaurant Antonietta has rolled out a 50%-off deal to drum up business. Owned by the Vittoria Group, the restaurant has seen the former site of their La Favorita pizzeria completely transformed into this bright, salmon-pink dining space that I wasn’t sure would be too garish for my liking or not. The only way to find out was by eating there.

Opened just a few weeks ago, it promises Italian food ‘with a twist’. An enthusiastic greeting is most welcomed as I clock a couple of chefs beavering around a big pizza oven near the entrance. The décor, as billed, was loud and screamed “Instagram me” but you could understand it in this tech-driven age, especially given the ridiculous number of hideous student dwellings that now dominate the area.

Starters, or piatti primi to be precise, range in price from £7.50-£15 with meat, seafood, and vegetarian options. We began by ordering mozzarella in carrozza (£8 normally) which basically consisted of a well-made cheese toastie with tomato sauce. What made it well made? The bread was crisp and airy with ample amounts of cheese inside, although it bizarrely wasn’t very stringy as you’d expect. The fresh tomato sugo was light and tasted rather healthy.

As well as pizzas, the menu serves a few larger plate options alongside a pasta section with prices around the mid-teens or below. There’s a gnocchi option, a risotto, cacio e pepe … you get the picture.

I’m sucked in by the beef and nduja mafaldine (£11.50).  Our waiter assured me the soothing ricotta tames the fiery spicy nduja sausage; he was correct, although the heat overpowered the taste of the beef.  It was a good eat though, with the frilly pasta skilfully cooked al dente and the portion size just about right. The balance of ragu to pasta overall was spot on. 

Sarah had the special of spinach and ricotta ravioli with walnuts and sundried tomato pesto. The ravioli displayed thin pasta with a creamy filling which worked well with the tangy tomatoes. The pesto was filling with bags of nutty flavours, a fairly classic dish executed accurately. The only real disappointment of the meal was the almost rock hard focaccia (£4) that we had expected to be warm on arrival. 

The staff menu knowledge was commendable and they were particularly helpful to a young couple with an infant dining next to us. I have to mention the awesome crockery which they also seemed to enjoy working with.

Overall, the (normal) prices are very reasonable for the standard of food and service, the latter being a real high point. The dining room was the obvious talking point, but it succeeded in transferring you to lunch in the Med, even on a dreich January afternoon. I just don’t get the twist on Italian cuisine. Modernise perhaps?  It’s hardly Massimo Bottura knocking out crazy concepts in the kitchen, but you’ll be well fed here. 

Web: antoniettaedinburgh.co.uk

Phone: (0131) 554 2430

Address: 325-331 Leith Walk, Edinburgh,                               EH6 8SA.

Open: 

Mon- Thurs 5pm-10pm Fri -Sun 12pm - 10pm