Review: The Percy, Edinburgh

 A FRIEND OF mine pointed out that I hadn’t blogged anything in a while, so I thought I had better get my finger out and produce some copy.  After all, I am laid up with a fracture in my back and have plenty of free time on my hands, even if I am in pain.  I’m no stranger to The Percy at the foot of Easter Road, but the last two times we’ve attempted to get a table it’s been fully booked; third time lucky.

For those of you who don’t know, The Percy is a Polish restaurant joined onto the Persevere bar next door opposite Tesco Leith’s car park.  It’s known for its hearty portions, quality cooking and generous prices.  It just happens that the excellent Nauticus bar is around the corner serving up some of the finest cocktails in the capital, amongst other libations.

The restaurant still has elements of a traditional pub about it, with tasteful green banquette seating along the walls and an interesting mural wrapped round high walls.  It’s always spotlessly clean and full of Polish families getting their taste of home, which speaks volumes.

Now the problem here is you genuinely want to order the entire menu – it’s that appealing.  With sub-zero temperatures setting in, The Percy just also happens to be the spot to hit.  Previous experience has taught us to skip starters due to the epic main portions, although I’m really tempted to try the Sunday Consomme, which is a broth made from the bones of three meats gathered throughout the week, cooked low and slow, I imagine – ideal for this sort of weather.

I opt for the crispy potato pancakes with beef goulash and sour gherkins (£12.95) as the latkes here are simply the best.  Three coaster-sized discs are crispy as billed with a nutty, soft interior that’s oh so moreish.  The beef is melt-in-the-mouth good and is coated in just the right amount of smoky paprika and tangy sauce you’d expect from this Eastern European classic stew.  The sour cream brings a welcome lactic tang that balances the rich meat and potato element, with the giant gherkins bringing another welcome note of acidity and freshness.

Sarah ordered the pork schab (see above) with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut priced at £11.95.  I mean the size of that schnitzel was a real Man Vs. Food moment.  It literally covered the entire plate.  It was grease-free and delicious, hiding a smooth mash underneath alongside the refreshing pickled cabbage, the sort of dish that just wraps its arms around you and gives you a hug.

I find Edinburgh, for all it’s glorious food offerings, can sometimes lack that hearty comfort food establishment and that’s exactly what The Percy is: generous food, well-executed in a very family-friendly environment and at a terrific price point.  It’s the best-kept secret in the capital in my opinion.

Web: thepercy.pl  Phone: (0131) 554 0721

Address: 390 - 394 Easter Road, Edinburgh, EH6 8HT

Opening Hours: Mon - Closed, Tues - Thurs & Sun 12 - 8, Fri & Sat 12 - 9