Review: Tapa, Edinburgh

 BEING A LEITH resident means you are blessed with excellent eateries. From Michelin stars to great gastropubs like Teuchtar’s Landing and The King’s Wark to modern dining spots like Borough and Heron, ‘spoiled’ might be a better word. Tapa is a long-established Spanish (how did you guess?) restaurant we’ve been visiting since we moved to the capital 10 years ago. It never seems to disappoint.

Independently owned, I’ve always admired their devotion to sourcing great produce, unlike these chain tapas bars you find up town.  Why wouldn’t you use the best when Spain has such an incredible larder? You enter into the bar area where the dining space splits into two parts: one towards the rear of the building and the main part, which is amusingly adorned with James Bond posters, in Spanish, of course.  It’s difficult to pull off the authentic atmosphere of a genuine tapas bar here in the UK, but Tapa always manages a respectable degree of conviviality.

The menu features a range of traditional favourites with new seasonal dishes appearing regularly. I spot a new addition to the grocery shelf. It reminded me of my favourite tapas bar in Barcelona, Can Paixano, who offer a selection of deli goodies at the back of the bar.  I also spot the outstanding Orodeal olive oil produced by the Kirkcaldy-based Henderson family on their farm in Andalucia.

Now, you have to order the bread course simply to try the outstanding Manchego pesto, as well as a serving of the previously mentioned EVOO, and the beetroot hummus isn’t bad either. Our first couple of tapas arrived a few minutes later in the form of slow-cooked pig’s cheeks (carrilladas Iberica, £8.50) from the finest Iberian black pig and octopus carpaccio (£8.50) recommended by one of the owners themselves as it "really showcases the skill of our chefs".  He was certainly right about that.  The slow-cooked cephalopod was perfection on a plate with the wedge of torched lemon springing it into life. There wasn't much of the promised red pepper jam or basil oil, which would have added complexity, but the carpaccio was a delight.

Slow-braised pig is one of my favourite things; cooked in a brandy and red wine sauce, it wasn’t too heavy, and the pork offered no resistance to my fork.  A sprinkling of salt (there was none on the tables) would have just perfected an excellent eat.

Croquettas de pollo asado (£5.50) are a staple for us here (Sarah didn’t let me order my usual morcilla de burgo) and for good reason. Chef has accomplished a grease-free cook on these little beauties with a tasty bechamel/chicken filling that’s decadent, yet well balanced with citrus notes and the pungent garlic aioli.

The chorizo may be a staple at any tapas bar, but if you ever wanted to learn about the good stuff compared to supermarket offerings, then I suggest you try it here.  Cooked on the plancha, its wonderfully charred exterior only enhances the smoky paprika and pork combo that's just ever so moreish.

Patatas bravas are a must and we opted for the mixtas version since it offers both salsa and alioli (£3.95).  They use quality spuds here and they’re always freshly cooked with a piping hot, crunchy outside and a fluffy interior.  We asked for more of the delicious alioli, as there just wasn’t enough initially (can you ever get enough) and staff promptly obliged.

Sarah speaks fluent Spanish and enjoyed conversing with our waiters from Malaga and Cadiz throughout the evening.  Both were hard working and very diligent. We always enjoy sampling a sherry afterwards; life is better with sherry - trust me.

Tapa is the best Spanish restaurant in the capital. They always offer a consistently high standard of both food and service. The menu consists of the classic tapas plates you’d expect to find, but it’s freshened up with interesting new dishes - like the squid in this instance - that keeps regulars interested. Well worth a visit.

Web: tapaedinburgh.co.uk/

Phone: (0131) 476 6776

Address: 19 Shore Place, Edinburgh EH6 6SW