Review: Purslane, Edinburgh

 I MUST ADMIT I felt guilty about booking a table at Purslane for Sarah’s birthday lunch. I’d always eaten fantastically well there, admiring chef/owner Paul Gunning’s creativity as well as his sound cooking ability.  It was time to put things right and see how this little restaurant had evolved.

Located in a basement site on the eclectic St Stephen Street in Stockbridge (right underneath my barbers Vagabond as it happens), the 30-seater restaurant had had a tasteful refurb since my last visit and I was pleased to see a familiar face back running front of house in the shape of restaurant manager Gregor.

Purslane always offered exceptional value for money. Produce is largely sourced from local suppliers such as George Bowers Butchers, I.J. Mellis Cheesemongers, and Armstong’s of Stockbridge fishmongers. Gunning has extensive experience in restaurants across the globe, including Michelin starred kitchens at Number One and with Phil Thompson at Auberge du Lac; this is a recipe for success, right?

Since my last visit, the à la carte menu has been replaced with a five or seven course taster menu priced at £55 or £65 respectively, which really allows the chef to showcase his food ethos. We were served the lunch menu on this occasion, priced at £19.95 for three courses (or £16.95 for two).

We were treated to a stunning scallop dish with roasted cauliflower, sauce Grenobloise, cauliflower puree, and brown shrimp to open. The shellfish were of optimum quality and cooked a la plancha to create the most wonderful crust, while skilfully leaving the scallop perfectly soft in the centre.  The puree was silky smooth with the roasted element bringing nutty notes that paired so well with the sweetmeat, while the zesty citrus and bursts of acidity from the capers brought welcome acidity.

My starter was a delicious potato, leek and wild garlic velouté. It was decadent and super smooth with slow-cooked onions bringing a slight crunch and reprieve from the rich soup.  Flavours were well-balanced with just the right amount of pungent wild garlic coming through.

Sarah opted for sea bream, again cooked a la plancha, with tomato broth, root vegetables, white beans, and baby spinach. Another masterful display of fish cookery, the tomato broth oozed elegance while the beans brought texture with fresh broad beans contributing sweet pea goodness.  A hearty spring dish
with a light touch.

We both just had to order the pheasant dish for main. A notoriously difficult bird to cook, as it dries out so easily, but it was ably executed here.  It was accompanied by some awesome sauteed potatoes, crunchy green beans, delicious kale, and woody mushrooms.  My favourite part was the sweet, smoky bacon that just tied everything together with a classic red wine sauce.

For dessert, Sarah and I both ordered rum babas that were accompanied by crème Chantilly and yoghurt sorbet with pistachios (omitted for me).  This is a tricky pudding to make, but this was a creditable effort.  You got the rum flavour and the sponge soaked it up neatly, with the lactic yoghurt sorbet cleansing the palate.  The creamy part was featherlight and a great accompaniment. 

This was like being reunited with an old friend.  Purslane is welcomingly unpretentious and demonstrates modern cooking with a solid classical base that allows quality seasonal ingredients to do the talking. It’s still one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh, if you ask me.

Web: purslanerestaurant.co.uk 

Instagram: @purslane1

Phone: (0131) 226 3500

Address: 33a St Stephen Street, Edinburgh, EH3 5AH