THE PALMERSTON is the
hottest ticket in town at the moment. The former bank in Edinburgh’s West End
has been transformed into a multi-functioning space that houses an all-day
restaurant, bakery, coffee shop, and bar. The food looks to showcase highly
seasonal British produce at its peak in a relaxed environment.
The brainchild of head chef Lloyd Morse and general manager
James Snowden, The Palmerston finally
opened in September and has received rave reviews from critics and the public
alike. I remember Lloyd’s food when he did a brief pop-up at Good Brothers in Stockbridge and it
always stuck in my mind for its hearty, no gimmick honesty and sound
technique. This isn’t fine dining, but
that is no bad thing in a world obsessed by the concept.
The restaurant is a beautiful space. Light floods into the 19
th century
property where the massive ceilings and original features mingle with relaxed
furniture in a convivial atmosphere.
Sarah is instantly drawn to a tray of freshly baked pastries by the door
while I clock an old freezer that had been acquired from
L’Escargot Blanc as our friendly waiter shows us to our table.
I knew we were in for a big feed here, so, having spied the
rum baba on Instagram, I decided to skip on
starters in favour of pudding, but
more of that later. After scoffing a few inch-thick slices of house-made
sourdough and a tasty plate of crispy pig’s skin (£4) – think posh pork
scratchings come Quavers – I was
ready for my main course.
Rolled hogget belly, beets, greens, and olives (£19.50) was my choice and boy was it a good one. Three fist-sized chunks of sheep fell apart with my fork and the powerful flavour really hit the spot. Thebeetroots were roasted to perfection and brought an earthy flavour; memories of picking them in my aunt Viv’s garden as a kid came flooding back. The wilted cavalo nero brought a slight bitter touch with the salty olives providing a perfect foil. The light sauce was welcome given the richness of the meat
.
Sarah ordered whole partridge with onion squash, bacon, and
prunes priced at £20. Another mammoth portion with a beautifully glazed bird
featuring juicy breast meat and tender leg.
Sarah complained the last time I roasted squash in the skin, but it
appeared to be a revelation here with the sweet autumnal flavours marrying well
with the game. Like my dish, the bacon contributed a needed salty element and
the fruitiness of the prunes made it even more interesting. I must mention that
the sharing pie dish at the table next to us looked damn awesome.
So, to the rum baba (£10 for two to share). The chap behind
the bar got all excited when we placed our order – we’d soon see why. This was
a good baba, light as a feather and sweating out rum as you’d expect, with a
dollop of quality cream to add a lactic tang.
You can certainly see why people have been raving about The Palmerston. I mentioned honest
cooking and that’s what I like the most about it; carefully sourced ingredients
allowed to sing in the hands of a top-class chef, and at a very affordable
price. This place has soul, man!
Web:
thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk/Phone: (0131) 220 1794
Address: 1 Palmerston Place, Edinburgh, EH12 5EF
Opening hours: Coffee and pastries Tues - Sun from 9 a.m.
Lunch: Weds - Sun12 noon - 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Tues - Sun 6 p.m. - 9.30 p.m,
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