The Palmerston, Edinburgh

 THE PALMERSTON is the hottest ticket in town at the moment. The former bank in Edinburgh’s West End has been transformed into a multi-functioning space that houses an all-day restaurant, bakery, coffee shop, and bar. The food looks to showcase highly seasonal British produce at its peak in a relaxed environment.

The brainchild of head chef Lloyd Morse and general manager James Snowden, The Palmerston finally opened in September and has received rave reviews from critics and the public alike. I remember Lloyd’s food when he did a brief pop-up at Good Brothers in Stockbridge and it always stuck in my mind for its hearty, no gimmick honesty and sound technique.  This isn’t fine dining, but that is no bad thing in a world obsessed by the concept.

The restaurant is a beautiful space.  Light floods into the 19th century property where the massive ceilings and original features mingle with relaxed furniture in a convivial atmosphere.  Sarah is instantly drawn to a tray of freshly baked pastries by the door while I clock an old freezer that had been acquired from L’Escargot Blanc as our friendly waiter shows us to our table.

I knew we were in for a big feed here, so, having spied the rum baba on Instagram, I decided to skip on
starters in favour of pudding, but more of that later. After scoffing a few inch-thick slices of house-made sourdough and a tasty plate of crispy pig’s skin (£4) – think posh pork scratchings come Quavers – I was ready for my main course.


Rolled hogget belly, beets, greens, and olives (£19.50) was my choice and boy was it a good one. Three fist-sized chunks of sheep fell apart with my fork and the powerful flavour really hit the spot.  Thebeetroots were roasted to perfection and brought an earthy flavour; memories of picking them in my aunt Viv’s garden as a kid came flooding back. The wilted cavalo nero brought a slight bitter touch with the salty olives providing a perfect foil. The light sauce was welcome given the richness of the meat

.

Sarah ordered whole partridge with onion squash, bacon, and prunes priced at £20. Another mammoth portion with a beautifully glazed bird featuring juicy breast meat and tender leg.  Sarah complained the last time I roasted squash in the skin, but it appeared to be a revelation here with the sweet autumnal flavours marrying well with the game. Like my dish, the bacon contributed a needed salty element and the fruitiness of the prunes made it even more interesting. I must mention that the sharing pie dish at the table next to us looked damn awesome.

So, to the rum baba (£10 for two to share). The chap behind the bar got all excited when we placed our order – we’d soon see why. This was a good baba, light as a feather and sweating out rum as you’d expect, with a dollop of quality cream to add a lactic tang.

You can certainly see why people have been raving about The Palmerston. I mentioned honest cooking and that’s what I like the most about it; carefully sourced ingredients allowed to sing in the hands of a top-class chef, and at a very affordable price. This place has soul, man!

Web: thepalmerstonedinburgh.co.uk/
Instagram: @the_palmerston
Phone: (0131) 220 1794

Address: 1 Palmerston Place, Edinburgh, EH12 5EF

Opening hours: Coffee and pastries Tues - Sun from 9 a.m.

Lunch:  Weds - Sun12 noon - 2:30 p.m.
Dinner:   Tues - Sun 6 p.m. - 9.30 p.m,

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