Review: House of Tides, Newcastle

 I’D VISITED HOUSE of Tides the week before the first lockdown in what was a fantastic if slightly weird experience.  Pubs were empty, restaurants half full and nobody knew what was going to happen next.  We had enjoyed the visit to Newcastle’s sole Michelin starred restaurant so much we vowed to return, and here we are.

The restaurant is a beautiful 16^th century merchant’s house that husband-and-wife team Kenny and Abbie Atkinson restored back in 2014 with the guide bestowing a coveted star two years later. You enter a gorgeous open-bricked reception area where we studied the eight-course tasting menu priced at £110 and enjoyed a glass of yeasty English sparkling wine before being escorted upstairs into the spacious dining room; needless to say, it was much fuller on this occasion!

The food scene in Newcastle is ever-improving and the short train journey from Edinburgh is most convenient if you’re looking for a short, wallet-friendly getaway.  We enjoyed a few cocktails at WC Newcastle, a former public toilet converted into a neat little wine and cocktail bar, the previous night and visited the excellent Grainger Market for breakfast and a stroll around the various food stalls.  I stumbled across the impressive FED’s Fried Chicken and made the short wander to the Free Trade Inn where we enjoyed a few craft beers whilst admiring the view of the Tyne.

We had scoffed a delicious tomato gougère each

 downstairs before being presented with an awesome basket of sourdough with cultured butter. I personally don’t like restaurants billing amuse bouches and bread as actual courses so, in my view, our first course proper was Isle of Mull scallops with butternut squash, pancetta, and truffle. A humongous scallop was immaculately cooked and it melted on the tongue with the pureed squash form bringing sweet nuttiness. The smoky lardons were the dominant flavour and seasoned it perfectly, but sadly the black truffle was slightly lost as a result.

Next up was butter-poached halibut with turnip, mussels, and caviar.  The fish was again perfectly cooked and benefitted from being doused in butter.  Plump mussels were carefully stuffed with a light fish mousse while the herby/turnip broth created a light but creamy sauce.  The highlight was a sharp pickled onion element that added another level.

An appealing dish of roast quail with apple and lovage sounded right up my street.  The meat was expertly executed to produce the tenderest breast meat and a pleasingly crispy skin.  The bitterness from what I think was marinaded celery helped balance the bird with the sweet apple purée and the lovage emulsion, a few big flavours in there that were skillfully balanced.

For the “main” course we had Yorkshire lamb, baby gem, BBQ aubergine, and mint – this was arguably my favourite course.  A gorgeous hunk of lamb fillet was topped with crispy fat and there was a nugget of soft belly, which is such an underused part of the animal.  The charred lettuce still held its integrity and was bursting with flavours of smoky aubergine and mint purées that we know works so well with lamb. 

Dessert was up next in the shape of banana parfait with sesame, coconut, and kalamasi (lime).  This was a solid pudding with a slightly runnier interior than I expected. The parfait was housed by a caramel shell that contributed texture as well as taste.  The banana mixed neatly with white chocolate cream and the tropical flavours from the coconut sorbet, while the nutty sesame tuille created another flavour layer; the lime gel brought relief from the sugary parts.

We finished off the last of very quaffable tempranillo (£41) with a refreshing raspberry and matcha tea meringue; very refreshing and a richer chocolate choux bun that you could eat more andmore of until you were sick.

The front-of-house staff deserve a mention as they were exceptionally professional throughout, floating seamlessly around the dining room the entire evening. Teamwork was most evident and team members were well-schooled on the menu.

This was an expertly curated experience from start to finish.  The tasting menu showed accomplished cooking, creativity, and respect to the seasons in a style that allowed you to relate to Kenny Atkinson’s passion for food and the north east.  The bright, engaging service ran parallel to the levels coming out of the kitchen.  Surely it’s only a matter of time before a second star graces House of Tides.

Web: houseoftides.co.uk

Phone: (0191) 230 3720

Address: 20-30 The Close, Quayside, Newcastle, NE1 3RF

Opening hours: Lunch served Weds - Sat 12 noon - 1.30, Dinner served Weds - Fri 5.30 - 8.30.