Review: Borough, Edinburgh

 WORKING IN RETAIL doesn’t allow many opportunities to do “normal” things like go out for lunch on a Saturday.  Our foodie friends, Ashley and Alex, had been trying to arrange a trip to Borough with Sarah and I for weeks to no avail, but at last a weekend off.  I was interested to see how this little restaurant had evolved since my last visit.

The place was pleasingly full when we arrived for our time slot.  The walls are adorned with pieces from local artists that gives the space a second function and shows the amount of detail husband and wife team Darren and Aleks put into the place.  I’ve always found Borough to have one of the most relaxing dining rooms, intimate, yet with a vibrant atmosphere.

Lunch is served on Friday and Saturday only with a three-course, 2-2-2 format menu priced at £28 with a few snack options, too.  Alex and I ordered a couple of wonderfully fresh oysters (£2 each) while the ladies shared a bowl of Gordal olives (£3.5).  I hadn’t had an oyster this good in a while; it was so fresh and creamy with a pleasing addition of blackberry and peppery nasturtium.

Us lads opted for smoked haddock with green tomato and cucumber to start; a dish very much in keeping with Borough’s unique style of food. There was a cucumber consommé that was delectably light and balanced harmoniously with the smokiness of the fish.  The green tomatoes were in perfect condition with a sprinkling of Nigella seeds adding texture and a touch of bitterness. There was also a top-notch bread course with Borough’s own cultured butter – delicious.

Sarah and Ashley sampled mushroom, hen’s egg and cauliflower. The first test was, of course, the yolk – lovely and runny to create an additional sauce with the earthy cauliflower espuma.   The oyster mushrooms were expertly cooked with a  lightly pickled fungus in there to cut through the rich dressings. 

The main course saw three of us order Traquair Estate venison with tarragon and hispi cabbage, while Ashley ordered cod with mussels and sweetcorn. The meat dish looked instantly appealing with two hunks of blushing pink deer screaming,” EAT ME!”. It featured a bangin' venison kofta made from the offal. It had a tinge of anise to it alongside the distinct gamey flavour. The veg had been beautifully cooked and lathered in butter.  The unsung hero had to be the silky mushroom puree that neatly linked each component together. The seasoning was on the money.

The cod looked cracking with crispy skin and flaking white flesh. Sauteed leeks were mixed through sweetcorn puree with plump, sweet mussels and smoked kipper butter adding a surprise dimension.  A deep-green wild garlic oil added both vibrant colour and complexity to what appeared a simple dish on paper.

A cheese plate of I.J. Mellis offerings would end my meal and I can dig that any day of the week.  Four beautifully tempered cheeses: Minger, Lanark Blue, Loch Arthur Cheddar, and Baron Bigod (my fave) were accompanied by a generous serving of excellent oatcakes and homemade crispbreads, as well as a pleasurable not-too-sweet chutney.

The rest of the table went for the dessert in the form of caramelia chocolate with hazelnuts and malted barley ice cream. Chef often includes a touch of nostalgia in his food and the frozen part of this pud brought back memories of those biscuits you dipped into your coffee as a kid, while the nutty sponge was as light as a feather. There were nifty crispy cake nuggets that added to the sentiment while providing texture along with the nuts. The sweet chocolate was a truly indulgent part.

On this evidence, Borough has moved up a level. Each plate had been intelligently thought out taste-wise and were technically flawless with surprise touches elevating each dish.  You can really get Darren's food philosophy from each course

and that, along with the chilled ambiance and

personal service, makes you leave a very satisfied

customer.

Web: boroughrestaurant.com

Booking: Book here

Phone: (0131) 554 7655

Open: Weds-Thurs 5 - 11, Fri - Sat 12 - 2, 5 - 11.