Review: Dirty, Leith

I’VE EATEN MANY a burger across many a land. My criteria for maximum satisfaction is as follows: a succulent, well-rested meat patty; tasting each ingredient with every bite; just enough sauce to enhance the burger, not make a mess; a robust bun that doesn’t just disintegrate. Today’s effort from Leith newbie Dirty promised so much, but would it deliver?

This is Edinburgh’s first dedicated wagyu beef joint. They also offer chicken and vegan options as well as a range of, well, … dirty sides in the form of chicken wings, pulled pork croquettes, and loaded fries. For those of you who have never heard of wagyu, it’s a Japanese breed of cow that produces premium quality beef, largely due the incredible marbling in the meat. Since Scotland excels at rearing cattle, this bovine beauty is taking on Aberdeen Angus in its own back yard. I am informed by the owner that they’re getting through 100kg of the stuff per week – no mean feat.

Sarah dropped me off on this bright Sunday afternoon where a large queue awaited the opening of a fried chicken pop-up at the excellent Nauticus bar a few doors down. There is a small dine-in area for better times, but takeaway only at the moment. The owner and I stood back to admire a sparkling red vintage Merc that pulled up to collect an order. “Give me five, mate and It'll be right with you," he said.

I could hear the searing of the meat as it hit the grill, no more than a minute then flipped for another 60 seconds or so – I knew this was going to be on the money. And oh, boy it was. Two blushing pink patties with plenty of tangy cheese, vibrant lettuce and a tasty thousand island-style sauce amused the taste buds. The crunch and acidity of the pickles was most welcome with the impressively robust bun lasting the duration. Normally priced at £9, they were on offer for a fiver this lunchtime and were easily worth double that. 

Our side of Dirty fries (£5) were enjoyable enough with excellent crispy onions, plenty of sauce and a substantial amount of cheese; the only drawback was, while the chips were cooked, they could have done with another 30 seconds to crispen up.

Dirty certainly builds upon the quality food and drink offering started by Nauticus and Twelve Triangles bakery in this once forgettable part of Leith. I haven’t had a burger this good since Bread Meats Bread closed a few years back, and I will certainly return – it ticked all the boxes and then some.

Web: dirtytakeaway.com

Instagram:@Dirty

Phone: 077477854675

Address: 130 Duke Street, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 8HR

Available via Foodhub, Just Eat and Uber Eats