Review: The Bull & Bear, Stock Exchange Hotel, Manchester.

 

WE HAD EATEN extremely well during our staycation to Manchester.  A cracking breakfast at local institution The Koffee Pot lived up to the hype and was followed by a hearty feast of English classics at the wallet-friendly Bay Horse Tavern. But the big one was yet to come, and, as a lifelong Manchester United fan, I couldn’t visit this fine northern city without visiting the Stock Exchange Hotel to eat at The Bull & Bear. 

Allow me to explain: the hotel, which originally opened in 1906 as Manchester’s stock exchange, was recently restored by GG Hospitality, the company owned by United legends Ryan Giggs and Gary Neville. The class of ’92 graduates enlisted the skills of fellow United fan and Michelin-starred chef Tom Kerridge, to open his first restaurant in the city.

The hotel reopened two weeks prior to our visit after the owners allowed the building to be used by NHS staff free of charge. The concept pre-lockdown was to offer tapas-style sharing plates, but the team quickly had to adapt following the Coronavirus outbreak, focusing on ‘refined British comfort food and classics’ influenced by Kerridge’s Marlow pub The Coach. 

It had been a few years since we’d been down this way and, while I was aware of heavy investment, I couldn’t believe how many skyscrapers and plush new apartment buildings had sprouted up since. High-profile chefs like Simon Rogan and Aiden Byrne, though their food was superb, didn’t fare so well in their respective ventures here, so it’ll be interesting to see how Kerridge’s venture turns out.

The gothic exterior of the building is dramatic, with the inside elegant and classy, although I felt the TV screens in the main dining room didn’t quite fit the grandeur of the building. An eye-catching statue of a stock trader dominates the centre of the dining room and the open kitchen also provides a talking point.

Today’s lunch would be from the set menu, which offers two courses for £19.50 or three for an extra fiver. We munched on Tom’s signature pork crunch with gherkin ketchup (£5), a sort of posh Quaver if you like, that’s ideal for sitting watching United on the telly with a cold one.

There was a little confusion with service early on, as we were served soup from the starter section despite not ordering it.  This seemed to slow service a bit, but the rotisserie of the day had to be altered to cater for my nut allergy, which also would have had an impact so no biggie. Plus, our host was super bubbly and polite. 

The main was worth the wait.  The usual chicken ballotine had been substituted with a chicken Kiev to deal with my allergy, which delighted me.  Fried to perfection, the garlic butter oozed out and filled the room with the most beautiful aroma – who doesn’t like that smell?  The chicken was perfect and worked in tandem with the bitterness of the tasty radicchio that accompanied it.  Truffle and parmesan polenta can be a difficult thing to balance, but it had a robust cheesy tang and the right amount of earthy truffle.  There was also a lighter cheese espuma topped with crisp breadcrumbs that completed a hearty, top-class dish. Sarah’s ballotine was moist and tender, with the meaty stuffing not overpowering the delicate white meat. 

The dessert of English apple and blackberry shortbread custard fool was the perfect palate cleanser. Brimming with fruit, there were several textures to keep your palate interested. The buttery crunch of shortbread mixed perfectly with fruity acidity and creamy custard, while the candied apple brought an extra touch of sweetness. Delish.

An excellent standard of food and luxury, but not stuffy surroundings. It’ll be interesting to see how The Bull & Bear progresses with a big-name chef in town, but they’re on the right track in my opinion.  I’m still salivating over that chicken Kiev, catching imaginary wafts of garlic as I write a week later.  Back of the net!

Web: thebullandbearmcr.com/

Instagram:@bullandbearmcr

Phone: (0161) 470 3902

Address: 4 Norfolk Street, Manchester, M2 1DW