Aurora, Edinburgh

AFTER A YEAR of mental health problems, I thought I’d take myself out to lunch to celebrate ‘turning the corner’. I had originally decided on Chop House for some steak sourdough action and was literally stood outside the door when I changed my mind and decided to Google the menu at Aurora on Great Junction Street. Wise move, indeed.

I’ve probably walked past this tiny 21-cover restaurant a thousand times and made a mental note to visit without doing so. I was in Istanbul last year and happened to bump into a chef friend of mine, Rose, who happens to live over the road from the restaurant. She suggested I try it out. It only took me a year.

The smart décor is welcoming, though slightly unusual for this part of town. Chef/patron Kamil can be seen beavering away in the kitchen towards the rear of the restaurant, although I opt to sit by the window to watch the world go by. Lunch is priced at £12.95 for two courses (£15.95 for three) and offers a four – three – three menu that takes influences from French classic to Italian street food with a touch of the chef's native Poland flung in for good measure.

I started with ham hock terrine with blackcurrant mustard, pickles and sourdough, which saw an old school dish revived into a plate that matched the modern décor. Often the slab of pork can come at fridge temperature, killing most of the flavour along the way but this wasn’t the case here. That sharp but sweet blackcurrant mustard was a revolution, cutting through the rich meat, balancing flavour-wise at the same time. The pickles added an even more intense sharpness that the dish could handle. Knife skills were evident in the tasty little chutney that added sweetness and there was a notable sourdough served with silky, soft butter.

I was really looking forward to my main course of braised pig’s cheeks in a langoustine bisque with scampi, burnt apple and potato glass. I delved into the scampi nuggets first after a mandatory dip into the shellfish sauce. I’d have been happy with a pile of them rolled up in newspaper. The cheeks were braised to perfection, although needed salt to fulfil their full potential. The bisque was light and delicious with the charred apple just taming the intensity of it all. A huge portion for a set lunch that I struggled to finish.

The restaurant was well looked after by just one friendly soul and my glass of chenin blanc was excellent value at just £4.95. I wish I’d had room for dessert.

A marvellous little bistro that’s a fine example of these tiny indy places that help make Edinburgh such a great food destination, and the best value-for-money meal I’ve had in a very long time. A superb contribution to the burgeoning Leith food scene you simply must visit.

Web: auroraedinburgh.co.uk/

Instagram: @auroraedinburgh

Phone: (0131)554 5537

Address: 187 Great Junction Street, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 5LQ

Opening Hours: Weds - Fri 12PM-11PM, Sat -Sun 10AM-11PM