AFTER A YEAR of mental health problems, I thought I’d take
myself out to lunch to celebrate ‘turning the corner’. I had originally decided
on Chop House for some steak sourdough action and was literally stood outside
the door when I changed my mind and decided to Google the menu at Aurora on
Great Junction Street. Wise move, indeed.
I’ve probably walked past this tiny 21-cover restaurant a
thousand times and made a mental note to visit without doing so. I was in
Istanbul last year and happened to bump into a chef friend of mine, Rose, who
happens to live over the road from the restaurant. She suggested I try it out.
It only took me a year.
The smart décor is welcoming, though slightly unusual for this
part of town. Chef/patron Kamil can be seen beavering away in the kitchen
towards the rear of the restaurant, although I opt to sit by the window to
watch the world go by. Lunch is priced at £12.95 for two courses (£15.95 for
three) and offers a four – three – three menu that takes influences from French
classic to Italian street food with a touch of the chef's native Poland flung
in for good measure.
I started with ham hock terrine with blackcurrant mustard,
pickles and sourdough, which saw an old school dish revived into a plate that
matched the modern décor. Often the slab of pork can come at fridge
temperature, killing most of the flavour along the way but this wasn’t the case
here. That sharp but sweet blackcurrant mustard was a revolution, cutting through
the rich meat, balancing flavour-wise at the same time. The pickles added an
even more intense sharpness that the dish could handle. Knife skills were
evident in the tasty little chutney that added sweetness and there was a
notable sourdough served with silky, soft butter.
I was really looking forward to my main course of braised
pig’s cheeks in a langoustine bisque with scampi, burnt apple and potato glass.
I delved into the scampi nuggets first after a mandatory dip into the shellfish
sauce. I’d have been happy with a pile of them rolled up in newspaper. The
cheeks were braised to perfection, although needed salt to fulfil their full
potential. The bisque was light and delicious with the charred apple just
taming the intensity of it all. A huge portion for a set lunch that I struggled
to finish.
The restaurant was well looked after by just one friendly
soul and my glass of chenin blanc was excellent value at just £4.95. I wish I’d
had room for dessert.
A marvellous little bistro that’s a fine example of these tiny indy places that help make Edinburgh such a great food destination, and the best value-for-money meal I’ve had in a very long time. A superb contribution to the burgeoning Leith food scene you simply must visit.
Instagram: @auroraedinburgh
Phone: (0131)554 5537
Address: 187 Great Junction Street, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 5LQOpening Hours: Weds - Fri 12PM-11PM, Sat -Sun 10AM-11PM
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