IT IS ALL too easy to book a cheap flight and ignore what we
have on our doorstep. As we rolled into the Four Seasons Hotel in St Fillan’s,
the breathtaking views over Loch Earn reminded me of just how beautiful
Scotland is. After a long car journey, the first port of call was the beer
garden to further examine that view and bask in the glorious sunshine. Only
then I can turn my attention to dinner.
The hotel’s restaurant (open in the evening throughout
May-September), Meall Reamhar, holds a respectable two AA Rosettes and takes
full advantage of the panoramic view of the loch. The three-star independent hotel is famed for
having the Beatles stay over in their heyday, as they needed a place to hide
from adoring fans whilst performing in Dundee. I couldn’t help but picture
John, Paul, George and Ringo chatting outside admiring the vistas, having a
beer and smoking a spliff or two.
My meal kicked off with a blue cheese souffle (£8).
I've got
a feeling it was a twice-baked (nothing wrong with that) effort judging by the
structure of it. It was light in texture and enjoyable with an identifiable
blue cheese flavour. However, if I order something like this I expect a full-on
cheesy snog rather than a peck on the cheek. There was a warm creamy sauce
ideal for dipping the souffle into for lubrication. Good effort technically; it
just needed a bit more of blue stuff.
Sarah tackled the pulled ham hock, sautèd potatoes, roasted
shallot with garden pea velouté (£9). Please, Let it Be good. The pea
soup was fresh and summery, harmonising with the saltiness of the tender ham.
The addition of fresh peas was a welcome one with the tang of shallot working
well with the other goings on. The
potatoes added a bit of substance to it.
I fancied the guinea fowl for my main. It can be a tough bird to cook, as it dries
out easily. The meat cookery was to be
commended. The breast had a beautiful charred, crispy skin and the interior was
wonderfully moist. No water baths involved, I’d bet. The confit leg, rich in
the fat it was cooked in, flaked from the bone and offered a contrast of meat.
I was a bit dubious about the billed citrus segments as it’s not my thing, but
they did cut the richness of the game bird. The little fondants were slightly
nutty and fluffy on the inside, with the aniseed flavour from the fennel making
it interesting on the palate. The sage
sauce was, unfortunately, a bit wishy washy.
Pan seared rump of lamb, smoked aubergine, mint yoghurt with
confit garlic, charred onion and herb oil priced at £21.50, including a share
for the Taxman, would Come Together to form Sarah’s main. The tenderness of the generous slab of lamb
demonstrated further meat cookery skill.
The smoked aubergine was handled well but lacked the promised smokiness,
while the garlic and mint yoghurt were great accompaniments flavour-wise.
Couple of seasoning issues, but I’m sure We Can Work it Out at the
table.
My dessert was an outstanding bramble crème brulee. The
acidity of the berries tamed the heaviness of the custard with the crunchy top
smashing as expected with a whack of my spoon. The accompanying shortbread
biscuits were Something truly delightful, with big buttery hits and a
sandy texture.
Ordering from the little person’s menu, Sarah tried out the
chocolate chip bread and butter pudding. It had been made with croissants which
gave it a moreish richness. I liked that
the choc chips were suspended through it rather than just melted in. It came with a delicious crème de menthe
cream to create that classic mint chocolate combo that always reminds me of
getting a Cadbury’s mint choc bar after Scouts when I was younger. I could
certainly Dig It.
We retreated to our spacious room, which looked over the
water before we had to hit the Long and Winding Road home the following
day. The bed was comfy and the shower
passed my hotel acid test with flying colours. I don’t think I’d ever get tired
of staring out of that window.
People should come from all Across the Universe to
witness the exquisite view. The food was
to a satisfying standard, worthy of its award of two AA Rosettes and the
hospitality on display was first class. Next time you’re searching for a
bargain flight, think about supporting our own independents – we can do
hospitality well too, after all.
Instagram: @fourseasonsstfillans
Phone: (01764) 685 333Address: The Four Seasons Hotel, St. Fillan's, Perthshire, PH6 2NF
Comments
Post a Comment