Review: Condita, Edinburgh

I THOUGHT I’D let you readers into a little secret. Back in November, a restaurant called Condita opened unassumingly in Edinburgh’s Southside; an area more associated with students than fine dining eateries. If you were to walk past Condita, and you may have already, you probably wouldn’t have a clue what happens inside. Online, their website gives very little away and there are no high-profile reviews in the press, although they will no doubt come. So fasten your seatbelts and allow me to explain why this will be your restaurant find of 2019.

Situated on Salisbury Place between the Post Office and a barber shop, this deliberately low-key affair is the brainchild of Mark Slaney, who has worked in the wine trade for decades and continues a family line of hoteliers and restaurateurs. I met Mark a few years ago at an event in Peebles and discovered Condita when he emailed to tell me he was opening his own place.

Dinner, driven by the best of British seasonal produce, is a surprise five or eight course tasting menu priced at £50 and £80 respectively.  Bookings are essential as Condita aim to achieve zero food waste. The man behind the stove is Conor Toomey, formerly sous chef under Michael Wignall at the two-Michelin-starred Latymer in Surrey and head chef at the then one-starred Isle of Iriska Hotel. Toomey’s precise modern cooking, attention to detail and understanding of how to maximise flavours lend a serious heavyweight presence to this kitchen, as well as an eye for presentation.

Drinks-wise, you begin with the option of selecting one of three aperitifs to accompany a few nibbles before the main event kicks off.  Wine pairings are available at £40 for the five-course menu or £50 if you opt for the larger menu.  We decide to order from a wine list consisting of 20 bottles that range from £30-£75 in price, all gathered with a keen desire to source organic and bio-dynamic wines that you won’t find anywhere else in the UK.

The interiors high ceilings and white walls create a blank canvas for Mark’s artist partner Rachel to weave her magic in the dining room, where she creates an atmosphere also in line with the seasons. An intimate affair with just six beautifully refurbished tables from McIntosh of Kirkcaldy, give it a capacity of just 23 (although that can be extended slightly). They could easily fit two or three more tables in, but the emphasis at Condita is on a highly personal service and you must respect that.

The bookmark guide, hand-sketched daily by Rachel, acts as your menu, consummately described by Angus and Marisol who aid Mark in operating the dining room. The first illustration was simply a mussel shell, and that’s exactly what we got.  Well, not quite. The shellfish had been poached in dashi and served with taramasalata (a cod’s roe mousse) which enhanced the fresh ocean flavours. The edible shell made from potato had an enriching cheesiness to it, without overpowering the sea tastes. It was playful and provided a neat talking point.

The second installment arrived on a grey slate, beautifully
perched on cinnamon bark with star anise; it smelled truly inviting.  There was a lot to this dish with melt-in-the-mouth haddock sandwiched between crispy chicken skin, almost like a savoury millefeuille. An egg yolk dressing increased the richness with a smoked crème fraiche adding another tantalising flavour element.  A burst of acidity from the finger lime and aromatic vegetable nage vinaigrette shows an intelligent touch from a chef who knows how to create balance.

Conor made an appearance from the kitchen with a delicious glazed chicken wing with smoked eel 'snack’ – his take on yakitori.  The meat had been seared on a super-hot Japanese barbeque to impart a slight smokiness and crisp up the skin. The sticky, sweet meat exploded into a hit of salty, smoked fish; another well-conceived plate that would go down a treat with a beer during the football. 

The team have access to a walled garden just outside the city, so I'd expect strong veg work. This course showcased celeriac and starred an earthy salt-baked part alongside the crunch of the fresh remoulade.  A celeriac cream ramped up the flavour of this ugly vegetable with a green celery oil just bitter enough to cut through the intense creaminess of it. Who says vegetarian food is boring?

Now, not many of you readers out there will have ever been blown away by a bread course. Sous chef Spiros uses a three-year-old starter named Lazarus to create these mini loaves that boast this beery, slightly lactic crust with the airiest of inners, served with goat butter.  Absolutely world-class.

The main course was an exquisite piece of sweet Scottish roe deer loin, cooked perfectly pink. The bitter chicory element countered that sweetness and added bite, while a black pudding puree and crumble element beefed it up with an umami punch. Peppery foraged scurvy grass and in-season wild garlic create a myriad of flavours brought together with an intentionally light bone sauce made properly in house. We may have drunk it from the pot. Michelin-worthy stuff.

Of course, all good things must come to an end, but not before dessert in my world. A drawing of a rosemary sprig on our bookmark didn’t give much away. What we did get looked like something out of a candy store. Forced Yorkshire rhubarb, both poached and in tuille form, brought sharpness to a decadent white chocolate parfait that was thoughtfully brought to the correct temperature before serving to ensure it wasn’t too cold. A decadent almond pannacotta draped in silver leaf gave wow factor with the rosemary crumble providing a nutty, herbal hug.

I don’t think it’ll be too long before this is the place on every Edinburgh foodie’s lips. Mark has created a truly outstanding modern fine dining experience that encapsulates passionate, unelaborate cooking with a five-star personal service that will leave you wanting to come back again and again. Southside might not be one of the capital's better-known gastronomic hubs, but it just got a hell of a lot better, and for me, this only adds to Condita’s charm. Book a table and thank me later.

Web: condita.co.uk/

Instagram: instagram.com/condita_restaurant/

Phone: (0131) 667 5777

Email: enquiries@condita.co.uk

Opening Hours: Tues - Sat 7pm - 9.30pm
Address: 15 Salisbury Pl, Edinburgh, EH9 1SL

BOOKINGS ESSENTIAL