CHEF RORY LOVIE first came to my attention when he lent his support to the Errington family after the FSS (Food Standards Scotland) began a witch hunt on one of our most famous and accomplished cheesemakers. A cause close to my heart, the creators of Lanark Blue eventually won through. When a trip to Dundee was on the cards, Bridgeview Station, where Lovie plies his trade, was a must visit. An award-winning chef, his motto is “think seasonal, eat Scottish” and snaps of his food really capture this. My ethos is support independents and this place happens to be one of just a few in the City of Discovery.
It may have looked bright outside but it certainly wasn’t warm so soup was always a shout. You might think soup is simple – it is, and surely any chef worth their salt should be able to make a good one, but a few soup disasters suddenly spring to mind, most recently at Christmas Eve lunch at a “notable” hotel in Fife. I was rather perturbed when served the most pointless Cullen Skink known to man. It was so bland I was tempted to wring my sweaty socks out to impart some flavour into it. Then there was a pea velouté at one of Edinburgh’s so-called best restaurants. It cost something stupid like £8 and tasted like dishwater; that was a three AA rosette establishment. Mushroom and thyme (£3.95) was the soup of the day here at Bridgeview Station and that itself can be watery and lacking real oomph if uncared for. Mr. Lovie has clearly tasted this soup as it’s delicious. I let out an “mmm” at first taste as there was a real depth of mushroominess to it, with a gentle kiss of thyme creeping in on the aftertaste. It’s also so well seasoned that the salt and pepper shakers were rendered unnecessary. I’m not sure if the bread is made in-house but it’s good and there’s a hint of something I just can’t put my finger on. Caraway perhaps?
Being right next to the sea I craved seafood so ordered fish ‘n’ chips. Beer-battered haddock from Peterhead (£10.50) boasted crisp batter in perfect ratio to the flaky fish. A bag of those Rooster chips with a sprinkle of salt and vinegar would have made for an idyllic stroll along the river banks, although I was more than happy chomping away at them in the warmth of the dining room. The mushy peas (an additional 50p) retained texture and a bit of green always alleviates some of the naughtiness of deep-fried delights.
Sarah was still full from breakfast back at the hotel so opted for the Black Isle flat iron steak ciabatta with caramelised onions and Rooster chips (£10), choosing to omit the mustard mayo as she’s strange. This lesser-used cut is a thing of beauty when done correctly, but the margin for error is small. It has to be served pink and, like all meat, well-rested otherwise it’s just tough and chewy. It was beautifully cooked and the fact there was no excess juice gushing from the meat shows it was sufficiently rested. The onions had been slowly sweated down with clear care, offering a sweet tanginess that works in natural harmony with beef. The ciabatta was alright if nothing to write home about.
This place was doing a roaring trade and when I asked the chef if they’d had an increase in footfall since the V&A opened he, very modestly, said they’ve established a solid regular trade anyway so it didn’t significantly affect them. As it happens, the owners are expanding the dining room and treating the chef to a bigger kitchen as a result of their success. The front of house were cheery and in control of the place; it was obvious they liked working here.
The Bridgeview Station team seem to have established a successful formula of doing what the public want and doing it with a well-run kitchen and decent produce. I’m certainly intrigued to try the evening menu to experience the chef’s true creative side. It’s a shame there aren’t more independent restaurants like this in Dundee because people will support them if they are done to this standard. My worry is that more chain restaurants will open up and make it hard for new indy ventures to thrive.
Whatever your dining needs, Bridgeview Station has all avenues covered with the added bonus of stunning sea views and super service. Rory Lovie is a talented cook whose passion for food really comes out – a real star of the Dundee dining scene. Whether local or just visiting, this place is worth your hard-earned cash.
Web: Bridgeviewstation.com/ Opening hours: Sun-Tues 8am - 6pm
Twitter: @BridgeviewSt Weds - Sat 8am - 8pm
Phone: (01382) 660066
Address: Riverside Drive, Dundee, DD1 4DB
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