WITH RECENT VISITS to the superb East Pizzas and Pizzeria 1926 still fresh in the mind from recent blog outings, it seemed only natural to try out one of Edinburgh’s most celebrated pizza establishments. Origano has long enjoyed a sterling reputation when it comes to the renowned Italian staple and was in fact adjudged to “sit atop the Edinburgh pizza tree” by the ever-trustworthy Blythe over at Lunchquest.co.uk.
This independent eatery can be found on the eclectic Leith Walk, which has become a proverbial battle ground in recent months following the intended construction of another huge student housing complex. With the ‘Save Leith Walk’ campaign gathering momentum, let’s hope the outcome will maintain the integrity of the area and protect the few small businesses that still trade there. Alas, food and politics don’t mix so I’ll get down to business.
From the outside there is a romantic atmosphere, with candlelit tables and customers holding intimate conversations with each other. It also looks bigger than it actually is. We enter via a bar-cum-waiting area and wander into the restaurant where the last table available is reserved.
The starters consisted of a range of breads/bruschetta and olives, but we dived past that section and straight to the pizzas, which are available in 11”, 14” or 16” for those with a large appetite. The eye-catching handmade oven and beavering chefs in the background immediately contribute to the drama and authenticity of a real Neapolitan pizzeria.
I’m hungry so go for the 14” Pompei which comes with a price tag of £13.65. The hand-stretched dough is light and divine, holding shape until you get to the centre where it just flops to perfection. The dough is flavoured by a creamy gorgonzola cheese that offers a rich and salty bang. There is heat from both the chilli flakes and spicy sausage, with the rocket adequately diffusing the situation. The garlic was a tad submissive but otherwise, it was superb.
Sarah elected for the smaller of the base option with the Vesuvio (£11.45) toppings. She admired the way the stone oven had blistered and crisped the edge. It had a satisfying smokiness from the pancetta and pepperoni and the spice from the nduja worked well with the other meaty elements.
However, given there was chilli and jalapenos along with spicy sausage, she felt it lacked the desired spice, and suggested she would ask for more chilli next time.
Beer options were fairly limited, but I enjoyed a cold pint of Moretti (£4.95) while Sarah opted for a small glass of roja vego tinto joven (£3.65) from a more substantial wine list. Service was commendable throughout.
The ambience was a real strong point to Origano and the food certainly matched it. The pizzas lived up to the billing, with the hand-stretched dough a key positive. Does it match the excellence of its rivals? It’s certainly worth debating. All I'll say is that competition is rife atop the Edinburgh pizza tree.
Web: origano-leith.co.uk
Twitter: @Origanoleith
Phone: (0131) 554 6539
Address: 239 Leith Walk, Edinburgh, EH76 5EL
Opening hours:
Mon-Thurs 5pm - 10pm
Fri-Sun 12pm - 10pm
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