IT WAS PLEASING to see an independent restaurant open in the city centre following the furore around many of the other recent additions that I won’t bother mentioning. Images from Six by Nico have featured heavily on my social media threads since opening, and snaps of “The Chippie” menu had left me rather intrigued.
Chef Nico Simeone was born in Glasgow to Italian parents and has worked in some acclaimed kitchens, including the Michelin-starred Number One at The Balmoral, and with the celebrated Brian Maule at Chardon d’Or. Serving a six-course tasting menu, the Hanover Street eatery conjures up a new concept every six weeks. Nico has mimicked the idea from his Glasgow branch by the same name (he also owns 111 by Nico), so it’ll be interesting to see how the punters of Auld Reekie take to it.
It was a strange coincidence that we arrived to Oasis playing in the restaurant given we had been to see Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds in Glasgow the night before. Speaking of good taste, we immediately admired the beautiful Venetian plastering that adorned the dining room walls. There’s an open kitchen, as well as a couple of screens so you can observe your food be plated. I like tables that allow you to watch the world go by, so to speak, and this was one of them.
It was pleasing to see a couple of efficient front of house staff who clearly understood chef's intent, rather than a dozen bodies tripping over each other but not actually doing much. I could overhear the neighbouring table waxing lyrical about the bread, which our server informed them was from the excellent Bakery Andante. Kind of wish we'd ordered some now.
It was pleasing to see a couple of efficient front of house staff who clearly understood chef's intent, rather than a dozen bodies tripping over each other but not actually doing much. I could overhear the neighbouring table waxing lyrical about the bread, which our server informed them was from the excellent Bakery Andante. Kind of wish we'd ordered some now.
We opened with a play on chips and cheese which was a real statement of intent. The Parmesan espuma (or foam) was creamy and salty with umami hits that were truly delicious. The potatoes in the bottom were strong enough to match the foam and were suitably crisp. A drizzle of curry oil added a subtle spice note to it.
Next up was "Scampi" and It was a real delight. Three nuggets of meaty Scrabster monkfish cheek were perfectly cooked and were rather moreish. Fresh peas brought a burst of flavour and texture, whilst the pea ketchup was ideal for mopping up with the fishy bites. The bergamot gel seasoned the dish and the citrus hints really elevated it. There was also a herb pesto that didn’t especially taste of much and I’d question whether the dish needed it or not. 
"Steak Pie" was the third course and if you shut your eyes and ate a forkful, you would think you were eating just that. The Speyside beef was amazing – tender as the day is long and wonderfully beefy. The caramelised shallot puree was sweet and slightly sharp, which was ideal for the meat. The crispy shallot ring garnish and charred onion petals sat on top of a thin strip of pastry and were pleasingly tasty. The issue was that they were served at fridge temperature which risked spoiling an otherwise knockout dish.
The next course, "Fish Supper" would arguably be the most anticipated. The Shetland cod was masterfully cooked, and I loved the crumb on top which resembled scraps you’d find in the chip shop. The confit fennel was a real positive, with the pickled mussels adding sharpness and pairing well with the beer emulsion. There was a hint of vinegar in there, too, for an authentic fish supper experience.
The "Smoked Sausage" came with a touch of theatre. A closhe piped with wood smoke was lifted at the table and wafted around the restaurant. The sausage element of the dish was in the shape of shredded Ayrshire pork encased in a crispy cylinder of yumminess. Celeriac, pork, and apple is a winner all day long for me. The remoulade was fresh and crunchy with apple balls adding a fruity sharpness to counter the rich meat. The earthy salt baked celeriac and morsel of black pudding completed a great dish. I thought this would be the most challenging of the six, but it was very accomplished.
Nico’s take on one of our most famous dishes, the "Deep Fried Mars Bar", would be the final course and it rounded off a cracking meal perfectly. The dark chocolate sorbet was rich and simply awesome. The caramel mousse and chocolate tuille were divine. I wasn’t too convinced by the caramilla bonbon, but it wasn’t as if it was offensive. The addition of orange really balanced the dish.
The menu costs £28 (with optional wine pairings an additional £25) which is a real bargain for the level of cooking and creativity on display. Service was slick and professional and enhanced the experience at Six by Nico. It's worth adding that they dealt with my nut allergy diligently.
I was genuinely impressed by this meal. I had built it up in my head with so many images circling around in cyberspace and it’s often the case that expectation isn’t met. Trying to pull off a theme like this often ends up in a style over substance scenario, but this was on point throughout. For the price it’s a total bargain – I urge you to check out "The Chippie" menu while you still can. I’ll look forward to the next instalment.
Twitter:@SixbyNico
Address: 97 Hanover Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1DJ
Phone: (0131) 225 5050Open: Tuesday - Sunday 12 noon - 10 p.m.
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