beforehand whether or not I thought Sunday lunch at the Elphinstone Hotel in Biggar would be worth the drive from Edinburgh, I'd have given a resounding yes. Having visited last August, their homely food made with consciously sourced ingredients left a fantastic impression, meaning the bar was set rather high on this return visit.
Having purchased a waffle iron the previous day, I had to resist filling up on waffles, bacon, and maple syrup before heading out to Lanarkshire. Now, I'm a man who likes my waffles, bacon, and maple syrup – and breakfast on Sunday is a big thing in my household. After a meagre morning snack, I was starving by the time we arrived at 2 p.m. and couldn't stop thinking about the list of ice cream sundaes we had enjoyed on our last outing.
The Elphinstone is a family-run affair and gives the impression that it's a big part of the community judging by the number of locals present. I do worry about future generations who perhaps don't have a friendly local to socialise in. Young people are so insular these days and pubs that were once the backbone of the community are few and far between.
Anyway, I'll stop digressing as no doubt you came here to read about the food. The menu represented excellent value with two courses priced at £11.95 or three for £14.95. There was a distinct Scottish feel throughout the Sunday lunch menu, with the usual suspects of haggis, salmon, and cranachan featuring alongside options for both roast Scotch beef and lamb.
My starter was home-cured salmon gravadlax with bread and a honey mustard dressing. The salmon was elegantly presented to resemble a rose petal. There was a hint of dill that you'd expect from this Scandinavian curing method and the balance of sweet, salty and meaty fish was spot on. The mayo dressing was a wonderful yellow colour and appeared homemade – it really made the dish.
Sarah’s opener arrived in the form of haggis crouqettes with red onion and whisky relish. My pet hate is when this sort of dish comes out soggy and cooked in oil that's clearly had its day. However, this was superbly executed and brimming with a quality haggis flavour with a crunchy coating to boot. The sweet red onion chutney offset the heaviness of the croquette with the warming whisky reigning in the sweetness.
I had the lamb for main. How good is lamb? I love it. I'm pleased to report this was full of flavour and was as tender as the day is long. It had a slight sweetness to it and was delicious alongside the accompanying jus. The potatoes were neatly turned, sporting a crisp outer layer and fluffy centre – back of the net. The carrots, turnip, and broccoli were expertly dispatched with a slight bite that left much to admire. The Yorkshire puds were tasty, although would have benefited from being cooked in hotter oil. Somehow, they remind me more of my mum's than James Martin, but still better than those cardboard shop-bought versions.
Sarah's beef was equally tender and came with a rich beef gravy, as well as the same array of veg served with my main; belts were loosened.
Service really impressed me. The son of owners Robert and Janette seemed to be in charge today and we chatted candidly throughout. That wasn't what impressed me, though. We were seated through the back of the hotel, where a young waiter was clearing a couple of tables as we discussed dessert options. The options were appealing but I said to Sarah I really had my heart set on one of those legendary sundaes (see previous review http://philsfoodworld.blogspot.co.uk/2017/08/review-elphinstone-hotel-biggar.html).
Now, at this point I must apologise as I didn't quite catch the name of Robert and Janette's son, although Sarah claims it's Michael. Anyway, the young waiter must have overheard and told "Michael", who arrived with a sundae menu just for me – I was one happy camper.
Last time I was bowled over by the Rob Roy sundae but branched out with the sticky toffee apple crumble option on this occasion (sundaes are normally priced at £4.95). The warm, sharp apple contrasted perfectly with the cold, toffee hug from the ice cream. I was pretty full and feeling guilty that I have failed to get rid of the pounds put on over Christmas, but sometimes you just have to step up to the plate and polish the dish off – it was worth the calories.
Sarah ended with salted caramel chocolate tart, which looked divine from where I was sitting. The pastry was crunchy and the balance of chocolate and caramel was judged to a tee. The tart raspberry coulis cut through the tart, although more of it was called for to handle the indulgent tart.
I like to think that I have good instincts and I'm pleased to say that that was the case here. A truly delicious Sunday lunch was matched with impeccable service and at pocket-friendly prices. Twitter: @TheElphinstone
Phone: (01899) 220044
Address: 145 High Street, Biggar, ML12 6DL
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