FOLLOWING A RECOMMENDATION from a Michelin-starred chef,
there was considerable expectation burdened on the shoulders of Edinburgh’s
latest burger joint, Burger Meats Bun. As a graduate of Hamburger University
(yes, go on, laugh) I reckon I’m suitably qualified to assess their
credentials.
We had actually visited BMB a few of weeks earlier, and were
impressed by their sincere customer service following a slight mix up with
Sarah’s order. I firmly believe a mistake should only be judged by the manner
in which it is rectified, and the apologetic team more than atoned for that
error.
Anyway, that was a different visit, long before the sky began getting dark at 7:30 p.m.
Anyway, that was a different visit, long before the sky began getting dark at 7:30 p.m.
Co-owner Ben would escort us through the BMB experience this
evening, and he welcomed us in. The restaurant sits on Forth Street, just off
Broughton Street, with the original branch located in Glasgow city centre.
Besides the fact that the restaurant is at full seating capacity on a mid-month
Wednesday night, the first thing I pick up on is the attention to detail in the
BMB menu: provenance of produce, top suppliers (Gartmore Farm and George Mewes
Cheeses), seasonal specials, quirky cocktails, and a rotating range of craft
beers. I also rather like their branding and menu format.
So, how would the food measure up? First off, I delved into a
tub of honey and chipotle chicken wings (£5.50), the evening’s special, and
special they were. The tender bites of chicken, oozing with a sweet and
slightly spicy glaze were rather moreish, and they tempted you to try the other
menu offerings too.
I opted for the seasonal burger, which came in the form of a
venison patty, haggis, pickled beetroot, Bonnet goats’ cheese, bramble jam with
kohlrabi and remoulade, priced at £9.50. Now, I have two main gripes when it
comes to burgers: 1) I hate it when the patty doesn’t sit proportionately on
the bun and 2) when the bun disintegrates half way through eating. Don’t expect any of those issues at BMB; the
robust, yet soft, brioche bun was a perfect foil for the venison patty, which
was a healthy size in itself.
The beautiful scent of the deer tantalised my taste buds
Ainsley Harriott-style as it found its way into my mouth. The beetroot and kohlrabi illustrates that
this is a chef aware of seasonal produce, and the earthy, zingy notes married
with the venison as if nature intended. I particularly enjoyed the tang from
the Bonnet, and the way it acted as an impromptu cheesy sauce in the process.
Sarah ordered the “Hot Chic” chicken burger (£8.50), which
consisted of a crispy breast, Toma Ranschera cheese, and chipotle sauce (she
omitted the mayo). The chef nailed the
cooking of the crispy breast, ensuring it was impressively moist inside. While she enjoyed the chipotle sauce, she
would have liked a bit more of a kick from it.
We shared some cheesy fries (£2.50) and the house salad, priced at £3.
The chips were crisp with a fluffy interior and covered with what I suspected
was Barwhey’s cheddar. The salad was a
fresh and crunchy offering, coated in a superb lemon dressing that was a
complete triumph.
We chatted with Ben throughout, and were surprised to learn
that the aforementioned Michelin-star chef (Geoffrey Smeddle from The Peat Inn)
was a previous employer of both him and chef/business partner James. I had
actually just mentioned to Sarah that the little touches like her butternut
squash cocktail and quality ingredients could separate BMB from being just a burger house – learning of the
owners’ background explained a lot.
Web: http://www.burger-meats-bun.co.uk/
Phone: (0131) 556 7023Twitter: @BMBEdinburgh
1 Forth Street, Edinburgh, EH13JX
Opening times:
Tues- Sun 12-9:30pm
Closed Monday
I always credit the photos back to the original owner. Food Truck Catering
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